Have you ever walked into a room and felt like something was wrong? Perhaps you felt the air was thick, as if you could almost feel an argument that occurred there many hours earlier? Do you sometimes walk into a house that feels “off?” It’s a place where you start to feel anxious and can’t wait to leave. Maybe you’ve somehow sensed a room in your own home just doesn’t feel the same as the rest of the house, causing you to avoid it.

These are signs indicating that a home may need to be cleared and blessed. House blessings are widely accepted and offered through many religious and spiritual groups today. In fact, there seems to be an upsurge of people buying St. Joseph statues; people have recognized the need for blessing, and have bought the plastic statue (over the internet or otherwise), then buried it upside down in their front garden before entering the house. Even though prayer, meditation and intent can assist greatly in the blessing and clearing of a home, if you don’t know what to do, or how to do it, the effects will be greatly diminished. A professional house-clearer and blesser knows what to do, and can assist in preparing your house to be sold –even during tough economical times.

Dr. Masaru Emoto provides scientific proof of how what we think manifests in the physical world through an experiment that uses molecules of water. His book, “The Hidden Messages of Water,” continues to receive critical acclaim and much acknowledgment around the world, and his work was used in the film What the Bleep do we Know?.

What puts Dr. Emoto at the forefront in the study of water is his scientific proof that thoughts and feelings affect physical reality. By producing different focused intentions through written and spoken words, and literally presenting these to the same water samples, the water changes its appearance. He took microscopic photos of frozen water molecules after taping the words “You make me sick”, compared to the phrase “love and gratitude” (among many others). What the frozen molecules showed was that our negative thoughts and feelings do not create a crystal snowflake-like pattern as positive thoughts produce, but rather show incomplete, asymmetrical patterns with dull colors.  If our thoughts and emotions can impact water so dramatically, what do you think they do to our bodies? 

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Clean Your House – Change Your Furnace Filter

Recently I had my heating ducts cleaned in my house after finishing a renovation project. The duct cleaning company used a video camera to inspect my ducts before and during cleaning, what a sight to behold!   There were pieces of drywall left over from the original construction and of course lots of dust. I talked to many companies prior to choosing Anderson duct cleaning, and as they explained,  the main difference is two fold; one if you don’t use a service that actually contacts all the areas of your ducts you will not remove the dust that is attached to your ducts, and two; using a camera guarantees that all the dust and debris is being removed. Shawn, the owner,  also gave me a great tip, when doing any kind of work in your home that can generate dust, close off your cold air returns to stop any dust from entering your duct work.

A typical house contains dust from pollen, spores, pet dander, lint, bacteria, etc. Even regular home activities like cooking or dusting add to the dust in the air inside the house. Such dust particles results in irritation of eyes and on entering the respiratory system, may cause respiratory disorders, damage to the lungs, or in unique cases, even cancer.

I now have two transparent inspection plates in my furnace, one on the cold air return and the other on the supply side duct work. As Shawn explained, after the major duct cleaning, I will now only have to have my cold air ducts cleaned when I can visibly see dust starting to collect in the duct work.   Considerably cheaper than having whole system cleaned. The secret to keeping your supply side duct work clean is using a proper air filter. Shawn recommended staying away from cardboard edged filters as they often collapsed inside the cold air return and allowed dust and contaminates to pass.

Washable/Reusable Filters- These are meant for extended use, and with regular cleaning and maintenance serve a very long life. Their downside is that it is nearly impossible to get completely cleaned and therefore adds resistance to the airflow. These types of furnace filters are also not very effective in trapping very small particles.

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Firestopping is installed mainly in large building but may be found in small residential multi-family units etc. Firestopping is installed in strategic locations to resist the passage of fire from one area to another.  One use of firestopping is to maintain the integrity of fires separations such as penetrations by pipes, wires or other building services.  The second purpose is to limit the size of concealed spaces as found in stud walls, attics, crawl spaces, and spaces in between the superstructure and exterior building envelope.

Firestop systems are rated based on tests in accordance with CAN4-S115-M, “Standard Method of Fire Tests of Firestop Systems. Four ratings ( F, FT, FH and FTH) are assigned based on test results.

Firewalls are a special type of masonry or concrete fire separation that subdivide a building into two or more entities with a fire-resistance rating from between 2 to 4 hours. Firewalls are usually used by designers to limit size of individual areas to allow for cheaper construction costs by eliminating need for expensive fire-protection equipment such as sprinklers etc. This procedure does not apply to fire alarm or detection system however as this is based on entire buildings “gross area.”

Flame Spread and Interior Finishes is the measurement of the surface characteristics of materials used in finishing buildings. Buildings are broken down into three categories which are combustible construction, non-combustible construction and high rise buildings. This is broken down into a further sub-category of whether building is sprinklered or not. The Ontario Building Code provides tables which provides the rules that govern finishes on walls, ceilings, surface – rating applies to surface only and cut test – which applies to any surface that can be exposed by cutting.

The importance of fire protection has been proven over and over again when lives have been lost in large buildings whose fire protection equipment has been either compromised or disabled for various reasons. One large fire in a high rise, which started in café on first floor, which contributed to lost lives, was blamed on missing fire-stopping. Such a small failure can have disastrous consequences.

This is our second article on large buildings based on requirements of the Ontario Building Code.  We will be endeavouring to provide basic information which we use on inspecting large buildings. Municipal inspectors are not permitted to inspect buildings that they do not hold qualifications for but there is no such restriction in place for commercial building inspectors.  Caveat Emptor – Buyer Beware

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Your furnaces heat exchanger is the most valuable part of your furnace. The heat exchanger creates the separation of harmful gases and the warm air used for heating. The four main problems encountered with heat exchangers are Rust, Cracked, Clogged and Overheating.

Rust – This is by far the most common problem found with heat exchangers. Air conditioners and humidifiers mounted above the heat exchanger are two of the major causes of rust creation.  A leaking air conditioner drip tray, a condensate line leak, both of which can cause rust and eventual failure of your heat exchanger. Humidifiers are by far the most common source of rust in your furnace.  Cheap design and hard water, coupled together, create the perfect match for allowing moisture and water into your furnace. The common drum humidifier which rolls through a tray of water, the level of which is controlled by a float, commonly gathers calcium and other hard water particles, which then causes the float to fail and water enters your furnace.  The majority of humidifiers I inspect have no inside parts and the water line has been disconnected or turned off. The cold air return plenum usually has signs of water leakage from the humidifier down to the furnace. This is always an indication that a furnace technician should be called in to throughly inspect the heat exchanger. A visual inspection can not be relied on to detect all possible damage and partial dismantling of the furnace is usually required.

Cracked – Furnaces can be damaged by careless shipping or by being dropped by the installer. This can lead to a cracked heat exchanger that would not be visible to the naked eye or casual visual inspection. High temperatures can also cause cracks in the heat exchanger or maybe a faulty casting or fault in the alloy.

Clogged – This condition is usually caused by accumulation of condesate or soot. Having flue passages cleaned in high efficiency furnace heat exchangers can be a very expensive process.

Overheating – One of the common causes of overheating is the lack of air flow across the heat exchanger. Having a new furnace installed without ensuring adequate duct sizing is a common cause of this problem. Always ensure work is done by competent technician who will ensure duct size and fan blower is adequate for the furnace being installed.

Regular Maintenance will prolong the life and efficency of your furnace. Annual maintenance is the least recommended time span between cleaning and tune-ups.  Save your self money and un-needed agravation by having your furnace seviced by a qualified professional.

CAVET EMPTOR – BUYER BEWARE

BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE ALLISTON HOME INSPECTOR – Carl Kolbe

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Soffit Baffles and Your Roof

One of the biggest causes of ice dams are the lack of soffit baffles. What are soffit baffles most people ask? They are also be known as Mor-vents and Sur-vents, usually made of Styrofoam and designed to promote air flow and ventilation of your attic.

With today’s higher insulation requirements, soffit baffles are required by the National and Ontario Building Code. Some builders prefer to install plywood baffles which are nailed to the trusses or rafters allowing air to freely move from soffits past insulation into the attic. What ever the method your attic is required to have a square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic space. The building code requires a minimum of 25 percent of ventilation from the bottom and a minimum of 25 percent from the top area of the roof.   The remaining 50 percent can be installed at any other locations of the roof.   Most builders in the Orillia and Barrie area just install ventilation on the top and bottom of the roofs. Some complicated roofs with multiple levels have roof vents installed at all locations where there is a variation of heights.

Turbines have become a popular addition to many new homes. The visible spinning seems to assure people that their ventilation performance has been improved. Personally, although turbines do draw out more air than the standard passive roof vent, there are some problems most people are un-aware of.   On the majority of inspections performed in Barrie, Alliston and  Orillia, I have found that turbines allow moisture and snow to accumulate on the insulation in the attic space. Although I have never come across enough snow or moisture to worry about, usually the air movement dries up all moisture before it can become an issue,   I personally would not install turbines on my roof for this reason.

A word of caution, when having your insulation up-graded, always ensure two items.

1. Your insulation installer did not blow insulation into your soffit baffles, causing blockage of air flow.

2. Your insulation installer moved into the different areas of your attic to prevent insulation from blowing over any protruding supports and creating voids or pockets of lower insulation.

Written by Roger Frost

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Eaves Maintenance Essentials for Every Homeowner

Eaves trough a.k.a. Rain gutters, are an essential but often overlooked component of homes. Eaves trough prevent water damage to outdoor property, roofs, foundation, and landscaping, and also help protect against leaks, which is why regular gutter maintenance is absolutely essential. Although eaves replacement and repair is best left in the hands of a professional, most homeowners can take care of maintenance on their own with a little know-how.

Eaves Trough: Slope is Essential

When eaves trough are installed by a contractor, they are positioned in such a way that they are slightly sloped towards the downspout. This allows water to be expelled efficiently. An important part of regular gutter maintenance is checking the slope of rain gutters. An easy way to do this is to climb up on a ladder and spray water into the gutters with a hose. The water should flow smoothly towards the downspout. If it simply sits there, the slope probably has to be adjusted. There are different opinions about the ideal slope of rain gutters, but a one inch slope for every 20 feet of gutter is a common suggestion.

Using a line level, locate and mark the high point and low point for your gutter. Then, readjust your eaves trough by repositioning the hangers. Replace any rusted or damaged hangers and screws.

Eaves Maintenance: Fixing Leaks

Again, use a ladder to access your eaves and spray water into them using a hose. Then, look to see whether any sections of your eaves are leaking. Most leaks in sectional rain gutters will occur at the seams, and this problem is relatively easy to fix. Simply apply silicone or caulking along the seams. Be sure to seal both the inside and outside of the trough.

Eaves Maintenance: Repairing Holes

Eaves trough can develop small or large holes over time. Small holes can be easily repaired with roofing cement. Simply use a putty knife to distribute the cement evenly and fill in the hole. Bigger holes can also be repaired, although it will take some extra effort. In addition to roofing cement and a putty knife, a sheet metal patch large enough to cover the hole is also necessary. Set the sheet metal patch into a generous quantity of cement. Then, place the metal and cement (cement on bottom) over the hole. Finally, place more cement over the sheet metal using the putty knife.

Eaves Maintenance: Downspouts

The downspouts in any eaves trough system are crucial because they direct water away from your home’s foundation. The is essential. Inspect downspouts for leaks and signs of wear. If your downspouts are joined to fascia boards, ensure that they are firmly attached. Check the boards for signs of wear and rot and, if necessary, replace them.

Eaves Maintenance: When to Consult a Professional  Read more... (544 words, 1 image, estimated 2:11 mins reading time)

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There are many electrical deficiencies that I regularly come across during home inspections. Commercial inspections are basically the same except they are more related to maintenance in most cases.  Home owners should pay attention to the condition of their electrical system prior to listing their home.  A Master Electrician will issue a certifcate for as little as $130.00 after inspecting your complete electrical system.

Some of the most common items found during home inspections are:

1. Missing outlet and switch covers.  Any opening around the receptable or cover shall be such that a rod 17/64 in diameter will not enter. Rule 26-700 (11)(b)

2. Panel board locations. They must be readily accessible and shall not be placed above counters or fixed applicances. Rule 26-402   One meter clearance in front. Rule 2-308

3. Un-supported wiring.  Cables do not have to be supported within 12 inches of stud passage ( 12 inches ) but are required to be supported every 1.5 m through out the run. Rule 12-510.

4.  Electrical cables on hot-air ducts. Cables are not permitted to run in areas where ambient temperatures exceed 30 deg C.   Hot water pipes and hot air ducts can exceed this temperature and usually installing fiberglass or like insulation to separate is adequate protection.   Rule 12-506.

5.  Electrical connections made outside of boxes.  Connections shall be made in box having separately bushed hole for each cable.  Also connector has to be installed.  Rule 12-506

6.  Steel studs and electrical cables.  When running lomex cable through metal studs a CSA insert must be used. No pipe or other products may be used.  Rule 12-516

7.  Receptacles exposed to weather.  Shall be provided with weatherproof covers. Rule 26-702

8.  Bathroom GFCI outlets. Must be 1 meter away from bathtubs and showers. At least one GFCI outlet must be located within 1 m (39 in) of one wash basin.  Rule 26-110

9.  Receptacles for walls.  Any finished wall, that extends past 450 mm from floor level, shall have outlets located every 1.8 m horizontally.  Rule 26-712

10.  Garage Outlets.  At least one duplex receptacle shall be provided for each car space in garage. Rule 26-714

11.  GFCI outlet protection.  GFCI outlets shoud trip at 3 to 5 ma range.  Outlets should be tested, power will still be provided to outlet even if GFCI is not functioning properly. They are required to be tested on monthly basis.  Rule 26-714

12.  Dryer and Stove boxes.  Must be secured from back or on two sides.  Rule 26-744

13.  Electric water heaters.  Shall be provided their own circuit.  Rule 26-750

14.  Protection of circuits.  All branch circuits within 1.5 m of floor shall be protected from mechanical injury.  Rule 26-802

These are some of the more common deficiencies that are commonly noted on home and commercial inspections. There are many more rules which are too numerous to cover in detail.  If you have any particlular questions please just send me an email and I will be happy to give you the applicable rule or consult with one of the many electricians I deal with for the  proper response.  Read more... (556 words, 1 image, estimated 2:13 mins reading time)

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The Fire Code is a subset of the Building Code. It prescribes construction and safety issues as they relate to how the building is required to perform should it catch fire. A significant distinction with the fire code is that it can apply retroactively.

The Fire Code can be applied retroactively A new Fire Code was developed that applies to specifically to basement apartments. The code applies to all basement apartments whether existing or new. Owners must ensure that their apartment complies with the new Fire Code and must obtain a certificate of compliance.

There are usually four components of the Inspection that must be met:
1. Fire Containment or  Separation of Suites
2. Fire alarms – Units must have working smoke alarms
3. Egress – There must be safe way out for occupants.
4. Electrical – Must have ESA inspection.

By-laws are created in some municipalities to prevent basement apartments as a nuisance protection for the neighbours.

Basement Apartments – The History

After 1993, a permit was required to change a home from single family to multi-family.

In 1994, the government in Ontario said that we could ignore local bylaws that prohibited second dwelling units in houses if certain conditions were met.

In 1994, the province set new Fire Code rules for basement apartments. A deadline was established for all existing basement apartments to upgrade to the new fire code.

In 1995, the Provincial government told municipalities that they could enforce their bylaws regarding basement apartments. A grand-fathering clause says that apartments existing before November 1995 do not have to meet local bylaws.

TWO-UNIT HOUSES (SECOND SUITES) Barrie ON – Local By-law

WHAT IS A TWO-UNIT HOUSE?
 
A two-unit house is a building that contains two residential dwelling units. Commonly, a two-unit house starts as a single dwelling unit (detached, semidetached or townhouse) with a second dwelling unit created within the house later on. The second unit is sometimes referred to as a second suite, an inlaw suite or a basement apartment. Duplexes & semi-detached units located on the same property are also considered as two-unit houses.

Effective January 1, 2004 the City of Barrie requires every two-unit house within the city to be registered. As part of the registration process, the City will confirm that the two-unit house is legal under the City’s Zoning By-law, and that the house complies with several health and safety regulations.

WHY DO TWO_UNIT HOUSES NEED TO BE REGISTERED?

There are probably a couple thousand two-unit houses in the city. Concerned that many of these units may be illegal and/or unsafe for the occupants, the City of Barrie has adopted a by-law to require every two-unit house to be registered. Through the registration process the house will be inspected to confirm compliance with the Zoning By-law, the Building Code, the Fire Code and the Property Standards By-law. Any unregistered two-unit house is a contravention of the Registration By-law.

HOW OFTEN DO I HAVE TO REGISTER?  Read more... (1402 words, 1 image, estimated 5:36 mins reading time)

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Most home inspectors take a couple of basic Part 9 Ontario Building Code courses as part of their education. The two courses taught by Georgian College as part of their evening home inspection course covers the basics of the building envelope and structural requirements of buildings under 600 m2, of residential or mercantile occupancies or being three stories or less in building height. Part 3 building inspections require a whole new skill set and qualifications beyond the scope of these part-time evening courses. These courses are typically only available in larger centers such as OBOA teaching facility in Toronto.

The Construction Type of buildings is very important when inspecting large buildings. There are two principle types of construction, combustible and non-combustible. Non-combustible construction must meet the criteria set forth in CAN4-S114 “Standard Method of test for Determination of Noncombustibility in Building materials.

Combustible construction has a higher flame spread rating and is usually limited to smaller buildings where fires can be more easily controlled by firefighters.

There are combustibles that are permitted in combustible construction and they are items like paper covering on gypsum, caulking, window sashes, wood trim and some fixtures.

Insulation is an example of a combustible product that must have a thermal barrier installed in order to be used in a building of non-combustible construction. The type of insulation thermal barrier is based on many items such as height of building, sprinklered, location (interior or exterior) and occupancy classification.

Fire separations refer to an assembly that acts as a barrier against the spread of fire or smoke and fire resistance rating refers to the amount of time it withstand before failing. Know what they are and being able to determine the FRR that is required is a very important part of inspecting commercial buildings. Any penetration of a required fire separation must be fire stopped or protected by a rated closure. Every occupancy has different requirements and may or may not require a fire résistance rating. Some fire separations require no FRR and are designed to hold back smoke.

Many vertical fire separations are penetrated by horizontal services such as plumbing, heating and electrical. This services must be constructed of approved material, fire stopped, enclosed in FRR shafts, protected by closures or fire stopped if constructed of an approved material.

Closures include doors, windows and fire dampers which all must have a FRR required by Ontario Building Code requirements. All hardware installed on closures in fire separations must be approved for use and be listed by recognized agency such as ULC.

This is the first in a series of articles being written on Large Buildings as defined by Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing and Ontario Building Officials Association. Visit http://www.napoleon.cc/tips for more information

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Here are some common sense tips and advice of things to do prior to the winter season arriving. It is better to be snuggled up in front of your fireplace once old man winter arrives, rather than rushing around repairing items that some fall maintenance would have prevented. So with that thought in mind please peruse the following list:

1) Furnace Inspection

· Make sure your furnace is in good working order. Make sure that the thermostat and pilot light are working properly and that the pipe bringing fuel to your furnace isn’t leaking or loose

· Stock up on furnace filters and change them monthly.

· Consider switching out your thermostat for a programmable thermostat.

· If your home is heated by a hot-water radiator, bleed the valves by opening them slightly and when water appears, close them.

· Remove all flammable material from the area surrounding your furnace.

2) Get the Fireplace Ready

· Cap or screen the top of the chimney to keep out rodents and birds. Check top of chimney for cracks in cap or mortar. Also check visible bricks and mortar for cracks. Have any cracks repaired prior to winter.

· If the chimney hasn’t been cleaned for a while, call a chimney sweep to remove soot and creosote or buy equipment and do it yourself.

· If your home is heated by a fireplace or wood stove, buy firewood or chop wood. Store it in a dry place away from the exterior of your home.

· Inspect the fireplace damper for proper opening and closing.

3) Check the Exterior, Doors and Windows

· Inspect exterior for crevice cracks and exposed entry points around pipes; seal them with exterior quality silicone caulking.

· Use weather stripping around older style doors to prevent cold air from entering the home and caulk exterior window joints to ensure no drafts are present.

· If your home has a basement, consider protecting its window wells by covering them with plastic shields. Ensure your window well drains are installed properly, covered with screen and then a layer of stone. They are tied into your weeping system and any debris could block your foundation weepers causing problems with your basement.

· Remove any un-needed screens and store until spring.

4) Inspect Roof, Gutters & Downspouts

· If anybody has been working in your attic or you have not had a home inspection then I would suggest you have a look in your attic and ensure your insulation is evenly covering your ceiling. You should be able to scan entire attic with just a spot light from the entrance hatch.

· Clean out leaves and debris the gutters and use a hose to spray water down the downspouts to clear them, As long as you’re cleaning out leaves, make sure none are clogging your chimney. Install a screen over the chimney top after cleaning.  Read more... (1399 words, 1 image, estimated 5:36 mins reading time)

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