Peroxide Uses and Tips – Great Stuff

This is what Oxi clean is…
did you know that????
3% peroxideThis was written by Becky Ransey of Indiana

“I would like to tell you of the benefits of that plain little old
bottle of 3% peroxide you can get for under $1.00 at any drug store. My
husband has been in the medical field for over 36 years, and most
doctors don’t tell you about peroxide, or they would lose thousands of
dollars.”

1. Take one capful (the little white cap that comes with the bottle)
and hold in your mouth for 10 minutes daily, then spit it out. (I do it
when I bathe)

No more canker sores and your teeth will be whiter without expensive
pastes. Use it instead of mouthwash. (Small print says mouth wash and
gargle right on the bottle)

2. Let your toothbrushes soak in a cup of “Peroxide” to keep them free
of germs.

3. Clean your counters, table tops with peroxide to kill germs and
leave a fresh smell. Simply put a little on your dishrag when you wipe,
or spray it on the counters.

4 After rinsing off your wooden cutting board, pour peroxide on it to
kill salmonella and other bacteria.

5. I had fungus on my feet for years – until I sprayed a 50/50 mixture
of peroxide and water on them (especially the toes) every night and let
dry.

6. Soak any infections or cuts in 3% peroxide for five to ten minutes
several times a day. My husband has seen gangrene that would not heal
with any medicine, but was healed by soaking in peroxide. Continue reading “Peroxide Uses and Tips — Great Stuff”

Paint Your Own Home

Steps to painting and prep work required.

Often times during the prep phase you will be using products such as sandpaper and scrapers, which produce millions of pieces of debris. The best way to insure that your flower beds do not end up with thousands, dare I say millions of paint chips in them is to cover them using a drop sheet.

Drop-sheets for your interior are just as important if you plan on using caulking and spackling. Caulking and spackling gets into carpeting easier than it comes out, so be sure to cover any areas requiring protection. If you do not plan on painting on a regular basis, we recommend using painters’ plastic rather than professional-grade drop-sheets. It is available at most hardware stores and is inexpensive and easy to dispose of at the end of each day, or the job.
Painters’ plastic also comes in easy to manage weights and lengths. You can usually pick up enough plastic to cover 3,000 square feet for about $20, whereas professional painter drop-sheets will run you hundreds of dollars.

Sandpaper, scraper, wire brush, spackling compound and a putty knife. This is where the real work starts. Your time and effort put into this phase will definitely be rewarded at the final outcome of your painting efforts. Sanding, scraping and wire brushing are generally exterior methods for removing the peeling paint that you are sick of looking at. You can also rent yourself a power washer at the local tool rental yard if you want to expedite the process.
Power washers are good for removing peeling paint and knocking down all the dust and cobwebs off your house. After power washing, sand the edges where the paint peeled away and left bare siding. Scrape out all the soft wood areas in your siding and then clean them before applying spackle, wood Bondo or caulking. You can also use an exterior caulking (not silicone), which can be painted to spruce up your cracked glazing around any of your single-pane windows. Caulking also works well for filling in staple and pinholes on your interior walls.

Rather than removing all the cracked glazing you can just apply a thin coat of caulking over your old glazing and push it into the cracks with a damp rag and then wipe it clean. Do it the same way for pin holes on your interior walls and your cracks and holes will be filled. Doing this prevents lines where you went over your old cracked glazing. This will also help waterproof your windows in the process. Contrary to popular belief, paint does not fill all small cracks and holes, so this will also insure that you do not leave any pinholes behind. Do not caulk over glazing that is loose or falling out. In these cases all the old glazing should be removed from around the window and then replaced.

Do not caulk over old caulking that is cracked or lifting. If an area, such as trim pieces around windows or at the corners of the structure need the caulking touched up, the old caulking should be completely removed. The best way to do this is with a razor blade. Take a razor knife and cut the caulking along any of the surfaces it is applied to, then lift and peel it out.

Before caulking any surfaces, be sure to wash them down with TSP or any other bio-degradable soap. Also, make sure to rinse it well so there is not any residue left behind. Remember that leaking windows and doors are one of the primary places for energy loss and water leaks. So be sure that these areas are well prepped and sealed before painting. Always keep a clean rag and some water close by just in case you do happen to make a little mess with the caulking or spackle.

Now that you have placed your drop sheets and prepped your painting surfaces, you can finish your prep by masking all the areas you do not want painted. Even if you are going to hire a contractor to paint your house you can save some extra money by prepping it ahead of time for them. Remember paint does not stick to glass, so if you are not painting with a sprayer you can usually cut your windows in with a small brush and scrape the extra paint off with a razor blade. This will help save several hours and extra money when masking. Otherwise, remove all screens on your windows or doors and cover all the areas you want left unpainted. Masking tape and painters’ plastic is just one method to protect your house. We recommend you ask your local paint dealer or painting contractors for other options if you feel you need them.

Exterior fixtures such as doorbells and lights can also be masked off. Some people actually remove these items, but if you are not qualified or experienced in working with either low or high voltage we do not recommend this.
Finally, if you plan on leaving your house masked, we recommend using masking tape that will not bond if it is left on a couple days.
There are several good tapes available that can be left on for weeks and do not leave behind any debris. Some people even leave these tapes on all winter, but we do not recommend this.

There are two ways you can primer your house before painting. You can either spot primer it, which means you only primer the bare wood, metal or vinyl surfaces that will be repainted, or you can primer the entire surface.
If you do not have many major stains left behind after your initial prep work you can use the spot primer method. Also, if you do not have many large areas that are bare and need to be primed, then the spot primer method will work. However, for the highest quality and longest lasting job we recommend a complete application of primer before painting any surface. There are many quality primers on the market for interior and exterior priming purposes and procedures. In most cases you want to choose a good stain-blocking primer for stains and bare surfaces, whereas standard primers will work if you do not have bare surfaces. We also recommend having your primer tinted. You will have fewer streaks or patches after your initial coverage of paint and you will use less paint overall. These are just some of the basics to help you get started on your painting endeavors. We always suggest asking your local paint dealers or contractors if you need further help clarifying what would best suit your particular project.

Safety comes first, so never do anything you do not feel is safe. Always tie off all your extension ladders when possible. Do not use step ladders like extension ladders by collapsing them and leaning them against walls or posts. Use the proper tools the proper ways and you will decrease your chances of having an accident.

Fireplaces – Care and Maintenance

When you cozy up next to a crackling fire on a cold winter day, you probably don’t realize that your fireplace is one of the most inefficient heat sources you can possibly use. It literally sends your energy dollars right up the chimney along with volumes of warm air. A roaring fire can exhaust as much as 679.6 cubic metres (24,000 cubic feet) of air per hour to the outside, which must be replaced by cold air coming into the house from the outside. Your heating system must warm up this air, which is then exhausted through your chimney. If you use your conventional fireplace while your central heating system is on, these tips can help reduce energy losses.

Fireplace Tips and Suggestions

  • If you never use your fireplace, plug and seal the chimney flue.
  • Check the seal on the flue damper and make it as snug as possible.
  • Add caulking around the fireplace hearth.
  • Keep your fireplace damper closed unless a fire is going. Keeping the damper open is like keeping a 1.2m (48”) window wide open during the winter; it allows warm air to go right up the chimney.
  • When you use the fireplace, reduce heat loss by opening dampers in the bottom of the firebox (if provided) or open the nearest window slightly – approximately 2.5 cm (1”) – and close doors leading into the room. Lower the thermostat setting to between 10 C – 13 C (50° and 55°F).
  • Install tempered glass doors and a heat-air exchange system that blows warmed air back into the room.
  • Use grates made of C-shaped metal tubes to draw cool room air into the fireplace and circulate warm air back into the room.

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Furnace Filters – Choosing the Right One

First item to check is to make sure your filter is properly sized for your furnace. Ensure that the filter completely fills the holding area, with gaps at top, bottom or sides. Also the filter should be thick enough to seal off any avenues for air to bypass the filter.  Another item to check is your owners manual for the furnace and check that you have the right style of filter for your furnace. Some people buy universal re-usable filters that might provide too much resistance for the modern high-efficiency furnaces used today. If no manual is available check on the internet for manufactures site and look up specifications for model of furnace you have. If no specifications are available, send them an email, most companies gladly provide information on requests from customers. Clean or replace your disposable furnace filter periodically during the winter–check the filter monthly. Brush and vacuum the heat exchanger surfaces every year, if recommended by your owner’s manual. Before the heating season, clean the blower blades and seal any air leaks in ducts with several wraps of duct tape. (use the metallic duct tape only)

A little maintenance goes a long way toward keeping your forced-air equipment working properly. Start by cleaning or replacing the filter. With forced-air furnace systems, air returning to the furnace’s blower first passes through an air filter designed to catch dust and debris and help clean the air before it’s recycled to your home. On new homes, check all your ducts by removing grills and vacuuming any debris that you can reach. If extremely dirty, notify builder and have him clean the ducts. This is only possible on new construction.A good furnace filter can help reduce allergens but isn’t designed to significantly improve air quality in your home. For that, you’ll need a special air filter (talk to a heating specialist about this).

When typical filters become clogged with debris, they cut down on a furnace’s efficiency and, over time, can cause parts to wear out faster. Change filters quarterly or sooner if they look dirty. Pleated fabric filters are a good, inexpensive choice for reducing dust and allergens.

Here’s how to change a replaceable filter:
1) Turn off the power to the unit.

2) Look for the door or panel that conceals the blower; sometimes this is marked “Filter.” Lift this door or panel off of its holding hooks or unscrew its retaining screws to remove it.

3) Standard filters are mounted next to or under the blower motor. Newer furnaces have the filter installed on exterior of furnace on supply side. A good installation will have a metal cover over side of filter to prevent air leakage. Remove cover and slide the filter out along its tracks. Check to see whether it is a disposable filter or intended to be cleaned and replaced–this should be marked on the filter’s edge, along with directions for cleaning if applicable. If it’s a disposable filter, its size will probably be printed on the frame’s edge also. Make a note of its size.

4) Buy a replacement and slide it back into place, noting that arrows stamped on the side indicate the proper direction of airflow; be sure you face these in the proper direction. If your smoke detectors or carbon-monoxide detectors start going off after cleaning your filter, you have installed the filter facing the wrong direction. Remove and reverse filter, this will resolve your detector alarm problem. More home improvement articles are available on diy.napoleon.cc website.